I have been obsessed with Tunisian crochet, love experimenting with it and combining my knowledge of knitting and crochet.
Tunisian crochet cables have been my favorite for a while now, and I am overjoyed that I was finally able to record a video and write the pattern for this awesome Arendal hat.
The pattern is free below and accompanied by a video. However, if you would like to support me and get an ad-free PDF fersion with a chart, the pattern is available on my website and Ravelry for £1.50
You can find the video on my YouTube channel, it shows you how to create the cables and walks you through the most important stages of making the hat.
Hope you enjoy making the hat, please tag me in your projects on Instagram and fb #annanikipirowicz
Materials
Any aran yarn, I have used 1 skein of West Yorkshire Spinners Croft Aran, you will need around 220 m
5mm Tunisian crochet hook
Cable needle
Pompom of choice approx. 12 cm in diameter
Tension
5 Tss and 5 rows to 2.5 cm measured over Tss pattern using 5 mm hook.
Size
This hat is a snug-fit beanie, if you would like to make it larger, you will need to add multiple of 14 sts pattern repeat, you will also need to make the ribbing longer to accommodate the additional stitches.
If you would like it more slouchy add more rows, please take into account that you will need more yarn if you are adjusting the size.
Each 14 sts pattern repeat measures approx. 7 cm
The finished hat without any stretch and before blocking measures approx. 43.5 cm in circumference and 21 cm in length not including pompom. Please bear in mind that the ribbing stretches a lot.
Abbreviations
Blo – back loop only
Ch – chain
C6B – slip next 3 sts onto cable needle (as for Tss) and leave at the back of work, 1 Tss in next 3 sts, work 1 Tss in each st on cable needle.
Dc (US sc) – double crochet (US single crochet)
St(s) – stitches
Rep – repeat
Tss (Tunisian simple stitch) – insert hook from right to left under front vertical bar of st, yrh and pull loop through.
Tss2tog (Tunisian simple stitch 2 together) – insert hook under two front vertical bars at the same time, yrh and pull loop through.
Tps (Tunisian purl stitch) – with yarn in front, insert hook from right to left under front vertical bar of st , take yarn to back, yrh and pull loop through.
Yrh – yarn around hook
Pattern notes
- The first and last stitch in Tunisian crochet are always worked the same.
- First loop on hook counts as one stitch, which means you will always miss the first vertical bar. It is referred in pattern as – miss first stitch
- The last stitch on forward pass is always worked by inserting hook under the last vertical bar and the bar that lies directly behind it (2 bars on hook) yrh and pull up a loop – and is referred in pattern as – work the last stitch.
Rib
The rib is worked in rows in standard crochet, using dc sts.
Make 12 ch.
Row 1: 1 dc in second ch from hook, 1 dc in every ch to end, turn (11 sts)
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), working in blo of every st – 1 dc in every st, turn.
Rep row 2 further 63 times (65 rows worked in total), turn.
Work in row-ends of cuff.
Pick up stitches onto Tunisian crochet hook from the side of rows, pick up 85 sts evenly along the edge. To work two stitches into one stitch, pick up one stitch under two strands of side stitch and the other from under one strand, please see the video.
Body of hat
Return pass (RtP) is worked the same on every row: ch 1, * yrh and pull through 2 loops on hook, rep from * until you are left with one loop.
Row 1: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * 1 Tss in next 6 sts, 1 Tps in next st, rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
Row 2: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * C6B, 1 Tps in next st, 1 Tss in next 6 sts, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
Rtp.
Rows 3 to 5: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * 1 Tss in next 6 sts, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
Row 6: As row 2.
Rows 7 and 8: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * 1 Tss in next 6 sts, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
Row 9: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * 1 Tss in next 6 sts, 1 Tps in next st, C6B, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
Rows 10 to 12: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * 1 Tss in next 6 sts, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
Row 13: As row 9.
Row 14: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * 1 Tss in next 6 sts, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
The 14 rows form the pattern repeat.
Repeat rows 1 to 10 once more.
Decreasing
Row 25: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * Tss2tog, 1 Tss in next 2 sts, Tss2tog, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
Row 26: Miss first st, 1 Tps in next st, * [Tss2tog] twice, 1 Tps in next st; rep from * to end, work end st.
RtP
Row 27: Tss2tog to last st, 1 Tss in last st, work end st.
DO NOT work a return pass.
Cut your yarn, leaving approx. 70 cm tail, feed the tail through tapestry needle and then feed all the stitches onto the tail. Pull tight to close the opening and weave in the end around the opening to secure. Do not cut tail, but move on to sewing up the hat. I Have found that the mattress stitch method for sewing up is the neatest.
With right side facing, pick up horizontal bar of first stitches from the edge (not the edge stitch), alternating between sides, then pull tight to close the opening. See video for how to.
Before attaching pompom, wet block your hat. Do this by soaking your hat in luke-warm water with a drop of wool wash, squeeze the water (do not wriggle the item) out and place the project on a dry towel, roll in in the towel and pat the exes moisture out. Pin the item on a dry towel, or use an inflated balloon to block the hat. Place the hat on the biggest part of the balloon, making sure that the ribbing is on the narrowest part, allow to dry naturally.
Attach pompom.
If you enjoy Tunisian Crochet, I have a stitch dictionary of Tunisian crochet being published in March through Quatro and Search Press. The book is currently on pre-order on:
moochka.wordpress.com 