Crochet Snowflake

I have taught a lovely class yesterday to My John Lewis customers. It was my first class over Zoom and it was a lot of fun.

I promised to post a video on how to make the snowflake as a reminder to class participants and it’s a perfect opportunity to share the snowflake with everyone.

Below you will find the written pattern and chart and the video is on my Instagram IGTV and Facebook page. I’ll post the video with subtitles onto my YouTube later on.

Crochet Snowflake

Materials

Any Double Knitting yarn would be great to use for this project.

3.00 or 3.50 mm crochet hook, size depends on your tension. If you are loose crocheter use the smaller one, if your crochet is tight use the bigger one.

Finished size

After blocking – approximately 8 cm from point to point across.

Abbreviations [] – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed * – repeat instructions following the single or double asterisk as directed Ch – chain Ch-sp – chain space Dc (US sc) – double crochet (US single crochet) Htr (US hdc) – half treble (US half double crochet) Miss (US skip) – omit st(s) Rd(s) – round(S) Rep – repeat Sl st – slip stitch St(s) – stitch(es) Tr (US dc) – treble (US double crochet)

Pattern note

  • Pattern is written using UK terminology, with US conversions given in brackets in abbreviation list.

Snowflake – written pattern

Ch 5, sl st to first ch to make a ring.

Rnd 1: 4 ch (counts as 1htr and ch-2 sp), working into the centre of your ring, [1htr, ch2] 5 times, sl st to second of beginning ch2.

(6 ch-2 sp)

Rnd 2: sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 1, [1dc, 1htr, 1tr, ch3, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc] all in the same space, * miss next st, [1dc, 1htr, 1tr, ch3, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc] all in the next space, rep from * until all spaces have been worked,

sl st to first dc.

Rnd 3: sl st in next 2 sts, so you reach next ch-3 sp, sl st in ch sp, 

* ch3, sl st in same sp, ch5 sl st in same sp, ch3, sl st in same sp, ch 3, sl st in next ch-2 sp, rep from * until all spaces have been worked, sl st to first space.

Fasten off.

Loop

Join yarn to any ch-5 sp created on last round, ch 15 and sl st to same sp.

Making up

Weave in all ends using tapestry needle.

For best finish, block your snowflake by pining it out on a towel, inserting a pin in every point and steam gently with an iron, being careful the iron does not touch the fabric.

Chart

 A symbol chart is a visual representation of a crochet pattern. Each round is depicted, stitch by stitch, using symbols that represent the stitches.

Once you get familiar with the symbols that represent each stitch, it is easy to read charts. They are designed to read exactly like they look, so the fabric that you are creating in your hands will look just like the visual diagram on the page.

The important thing to know to work from a crochet symbol chart is where to put the stitches. In this chart you will work round-by-round reading images instead of in words.  This chart is worked from the inside out, starting in the centre and working counterclockwise. The end of round is represented with slip stitch which is the black or pink dot.

Also, round numbers are placed at the start of round and each round is different colour so it is not confusing.

Enjoy

Anna xx

Hyacinth bulb

Around two weeks ago the lovely people at Search Press interviewed me for their blog and also asked me if I had any projects that didn’t make it into my book, Crocheted Wreaths for the Home. There were few but these hyacinth bulbs were my favourite and I had to share them. You can read the interview here.

Nothing symbolises Spring to me like hyacinth bulbs, and they are at the most beautiful when the flowers are just coming out, so of course I had to add flowers to my bulbs. I had this bright idea on Saturday while looking at the bulbs displayed in our bedroom, I adored them, but they needed colour.

I made flowers, followed by crochet I-cord stem and then put it all together and then I was happy.

The pattern for the bulb was only available on the Search Press blog but I decided to gather all the patterns and video here so you can have it all in one place.

The video shows you how to make crochet I-cord stem, insert wire into it and fit it inside the top of bulb. Of course if you are making the bulb from scratch insert the stem at the same time as leaves but I had the bulbs already made and wasn’t going to unpick the leaves.

Materials

Oddments of DK yarn in four colours.

I have used Rowan Felted Tweed DK in Phantom 153, Avocado 161, Frozen 185 and Clay 177.

Brown (A), green (B), pink (C) and few strands of Cream (C)

3 mm crochet hook

2.50 mm crochet hook

Small amount of toy stuffing

Tapestry needle

Lockable stitch marker

Approx. 30 cm length of thin craft wire

Glue (optional)

Finished size

The completed bulb with leaves measures approx. 12 cm in height and 16 cm around the fattest part.

Tension

6 dc and 7 rnd to 2.50 cm square over dc using 3 mm crochet hook.

Abbreviations

[] – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

* – repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed

approx.  – approximately

Ch – chain

Ch-sp – chain space

Dc (US sc) – double crochet

Dc2tog (US sc2tog) – double crochet two together – [Insert hook into next stitch (or as required), yrh and pull loop through] twice, (3 loops left on hook), yrh and pull loop through all 3 loops on hook.

Htr (US hdc) – half treble

Miss (US skip) – omit st(es)

Rep – repeat

Rnd(s) – round(s)

Sl st – slip stitch

St(s) – stitch(es)

Yrh – yarn around hook

Pattern notes

  1. Bulb is worked in a continuous spiral.
  2. Pattern is written using UK terminology with US conversions given in brackets in abbreviation list.

Bulb

Using 3.00 mm hook and yarn A work 6 dc in an adjustable ring, enclosing the yarn end as you work, pull tight on the yarn end to close up opening.

Place marker on the first st to denote the beginning of rnd, move the marker up as you work.

Rnd 1: 2 dc in each st to end (12 sts).

Rnd 2: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, rep from * to end (18 sts).

Rnd 3: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, rep from * to end (24 sts).

Rnd 4: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, rep from * to end (30 sts).

Rnd 5: *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts, rep from * to end (36 sts).

Rnds 6-9: 1 dc in each st to end.

Rnd 10: *dc2tog, 1 dc in next 4 sts, rep from * to end (30 sts).

Rnds 11-12: 1 dc in each st to end.

Rnd 13: *dc2tog, 1 dc in next 3 sts, rep from * to end (24 sts).

Rnd 14: 1 dc in each st to end.

Start stuffing the bulb now, do not over stuff, but make sure the shape is nicely rounded and the bottom flat.

Rnd 15: *dc2tog, 1 dc in next 2 sts, rep from * to end (18 sts).

Rnd 16: 1 dc in each st to end.

Rnd 17: *dc2tog, 1 dc in next st, rep from * to end (12 sts).

Stuff the bulb a little more.

Rnd 18: sl st in st with marker, you can remove the marker now, [ch 3, 1 dc in second ch from hook, 1 htr in next ch, miss st with sl st and next st, sl st in next st] 6 times, ending last repeat with sl st to first sl st. (6 points)

Fasten off leaving a tail of around 10 cm.

Leaves (make 3)

Using 3.00 mm hook and yarn B make 15 ch.

Rnd 1: 1 dc in second ch from hook , 1 dc in next 3 ch, 1 htr in next 9 ch, 4 htr in next ch, working on the other side of foundation ch, 1 htr in next 9 ch, 1 dc in next 4 ch, ch 3, sl st to first dc. (30 sts)

Fasten off.

Flowers (make 11)

Using 2.50 mm hook and yarn C.
Rnd 1: Into adjustable ring work, ch 1, [1 dc, ch 3] 5 times, enclosing the tail as you work, at the end pull on the tail to close up opening,  sl st to first dc. (5 petals)

Fasten off.

Stem

Using 2.50 mm hook and yarn B, leave around 15 cm tail before you start, make 3 st crochet I-cord 6 cm in length.

Watch the video below to show you exactly how to do this, or follow the written instructions to make the I-cord.

Fold wire in half and insert inside the stem, then insert the stem between the leaves on top, using the beginning tail sew in place to leaves.

Making crochet I-cord

You will also need one double pointed needle or short knitting needle or long sewing up needle

Step 1: Ch 3, insert hook into second ch from hook, yrh and pull up a loop, insert hook into next ch, yrh and pull up a loop. (3 loops on hook).

Step 2: Slip first 2 loops onto double pointed needle or whichever needle you have handy. Yrh and pull through remaining loop on hook. Insert hook into first loop on needle, yrh and pull yarn through (2 loops now on hook). Insert hook into second loop on needle, yrh and pull yarn through (3 loops now on hook).

Repeat step 2 until i-cord measures desired length. Cut yarn, leaving a tail of around 10 cm. Yrh and pull end through all 3 loops on hook, pull tight to fasten off.

Making up

Weave in all ends.

Block leaves by pinning out and steaming gently with an iron. Inserting pin under ch 3 sp to create a nice point.

Using photograph as a guide – Insert three leaves with ch-3 sp facing up into the bulb opening on top, followed by stem, using the bulb yarn tail sew to secure in place. 

Attached 11 flowers around crochet I-cord stem. I’ve used glue gun to do this, but you can sew them in place or use a craft glue.

Roots

Cut 6 lengths of C, approx. 10 cm long, using crochet hook feed the yarn around dc from adjustable ring rnd, fold the yarn in half and tie in a knot.

Your hyacinth bulb is finished 🙂

Enjoy,

Anna xx