Sparrow shawl

Hope you are all staying safe and taking care of yourselves and if self-isolating you have plenty to keep you entertained. It is a very frightening time but let’s remember that we are all in the same boat, and we must help, whenever we can, the less fortunate.

There are great websites where you can register to volunteer in your local community: https://covidmutualaid.org/resources/

You can donate food to your local food bank: https://www.trusselltrust.org/get-involved/ways-to-give/donate-food/

or if you cannot donate food, you can donate money: https://www.trusselltrust.org/get-involved/ways-to-give/donate-food/

Above all please take care of yourselves, if you are worried and need help please visit this website: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/coronavirus-covid-19-information-for-individuals-and-businesses-in-wales

or

https://111.nhs.uk/covid-19

This shawl might be the perfect project when you are self-isolating, I’m hoping it will keep your mind off the horrible things happening. It is a deep triangular shawl worked top down in traditional granny square style. It’s a stash buster shawl which is super quick and easy make. I came up with the idea for it from simply looking at my yarn stash. All the one balls of yarn that we save here and there will be perfect to use for this shawl, I’m about to start a second version using all the oddments. All you need is enough in your oddments of one colour to complete one row. I have used DK yarns but any weight will be great, just adjust the hook size accordingly, I would go 2 sizes up from what’s recommended for your yarn.

The shawl gets its name from the lovely sparrows that were flying around when we were taking pictures of the shawl at Rye Meads in Hertfordshire.

This version is done with Drops Puna and Louisa Harding Amitola. I don’t even remember what I bought the Drops yarn for exactly, but it is the most beautiful shade of grey. The colour in Amitola is long discontinued and I remember I bought it on sale in John Lewis ages ago. I love Amitola yarns and colours, it has long lengths between colour changes which looks lovely when crochet. I only had one ball of this yarn so decided to spread it out across the shawl.

I have used exactly 5.5 balls of the Drops yarn and almost everything of Amitola, I just had a tiny bit left.

Before you get crocheting, please read these first:

•             Please note that pattern is written using UK terminology with US conversion given in abbreviation list.

•             Do not cut yarns after every stripe but carry it with you – see techniques at the end of pattern.

Materials

Colour A – 6 x Drops Puna sh.07 – 100% Alpaca, 110 m (120 yds) to 50 g

Colour B – 1 x Louisa Harding Amitola DK sh.103 – 80% Wool, 20 % Silk, 250 m (273 yds) to 50 g

5 mm (US 8/H) crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Tension

After gentle blocking 5 tr groups and 11 rows measured over pattern to 10 cm (4 in) using 5 mm hook.

Finished size

The measurements are taken after gentle blocking – approx. 180 cm at the top edge and 88 cm deep.

Abbreviations

[] – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

*and ** – repeat instructions following the single or double asterisk as directed

Adjustable ring – for a picture tutorial on how to make adjustable ring please visit the tutorial page on my website: https://moochka.co.uk/pages/tutorials

Approx – approximately

Beg – beginning

Ch – chain

Ch-sp – chain space

Dc (US sc) – double crochet (US single crochet)

Tr (US dc) – treble (US double crochet)

Tr group – 3 trebles

Rep – repeat

Rnd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

St(s) – stitch(es)

Yrh – yarn around hook

Foundation row: Using colour A, work ch 1, 1 dc, [ch 3, 1 dc] 3 times into an adjustable ring, enclosing the yarn end as you work, pull tight on the yarn end to close up opening. (3 ch-3 sp)

Row 1 (RS): ch 4 (counts as 1 tr and ch-1 sp here and throughout), 3 tr in first ch-3 sp, [3 tr, ch 4, 3 tr] all in next ch-3 sp, 3 tr in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 1 tr in last st. ( 4 x tr groups)

You may wish to place a marker at the centre ch-4 sp to denote the spine of the shawl, move the marker up as you work.

Change to colour B

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 dc in first st, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, 1 dc between next tr groups, ch 3, [1 dc, ch 4, 1 dc] in centre ch-4 sp, ch 3, 1 dc between next tr groups, ch 3, 1 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in 3rd of beg ch 4. (7 ch-sp)

Row 3: ch 4, 3 tr in every ch-3 sp to centre ch-4 sp, [3 tr, ch 4, 3 tr] all in centre ch-4 sp, 3 tr in every ch-3 sp to last st, ch 1, 1 tr in last st. ( 8 x tr groups)

Change to colour A

Row 4: ch 1, 1 dc in first st, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, *1 dc between next tr groups, ch 3* rep from * to * to centre ch-4 sp, [1 dc, ch 4, 1 dc] in centre ch-4 sp, ch 3, rep from * to * to last ch-1 sp, 1 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in 3rd of beg ch 4. (11 ch-sp)

Rows 3 and 4 form the pattern.

Keep repeating the pattern working in colour sequence as set below.

Do not cut yarns after every colour change but carry it with you neatly up the side of work catching it in stitches (see instructions below).

Colour sequence

Row 5 – A

Rows 6 and 7 – B

Rows 8 and 9 – A

Rows 10 and 11 – B

Rows 12 and 13 – A

Rows 14 and 15 – B

Rows 16 and 17 – A

Rows 18 and 19 – B

Rows 20 and 21 – A

Rows 22 and 23 – B

Rows 24 and 25 – A

Rows 26 and 27 – B

Rows 28 to 31 – A

Rows 32 to 33 – B

Rows 34 to 39 – A

Rows 40 and 41 – B

Rows 42 to 49 – A

Rows 50 and 51 – B

Rows 52 to 61 – A

Row 62 – B

Row 63 – A

Row 64 – B

Continue in colour B

Row 65 (RS): ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch-3 sp), *1 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3*, rep from * to * to centre ch-4 sp, [1 dc, ch 4, 1 dc] in centre ch-4 sp, ch 3, rep from * to * to last st, 1 dc in last st. (133 ch-sp)

Carrying yarns

To avoid frustrations and huge amount of ends to weave in carry the yarn with you up the side of the shawl and do not cut it at every colour change.

For the neatest finish, change on the last stitch of treble row.

1: Stop on the last stage before treble is completed, when you have two loops on hook.

2: Drop the working yarn to the back of work and pick up new colour from the front of work.

3: Finish off the stitch with new colour.

Continue this way when you have two rows between colour changes.

When you need to carry yarn over few rows, catch it twice at the beginning and end of tr: yrh, insert hook in next st, place the yarn you need to carry on the hook, yrh, pull up a loop, making sure that the additional yarn doesn’t come through the stitch but is stays neatly on top of the working yarn, yrh pull through two loops on hook, place the yarn you are carrying on the hook again, yrh, pull though two loops on hook, the additional yarn stays on top of working yarn neatly moving up the sides.

Stop carrying yarns after row 41, the changes between colours just get too wide.

Stay safe and happy crocheting,

Anna x

Crochet flower


Since I posted a picture of the flowers I crocheted for the beautiful and courageous Jenny. I have had quite a lot of inquiries for the pattern, it was a flower that I made up, but you have encouraged me to put the pattern on paper.

I would like to share the flower with you in memory of the amazing Jenny and encourage you to make and share the flowers with anyone who needs cheering up. Spread a little love around, the world really needs it right now.

Enjoy

Anna xx

Abbreviations
Beg – beginning
Ch – chain
Ch-sp  chain space
Dc (US sc) – double crochet (US -single crochet)
Htr (US hdc) – half treble crochet (US -half double crochet)
Magic loop – for tutorial on how to work this technique, please click here
Tr (US dc) – treble crochet (US -double crochet)
Ss – slip stitch
Materials
You will need small amounts of
Rowan Kidsilk Haze in 3 colours A, B and C
3.5 mm (US E/4) crochet hook     
Approx. 11 x beads – I have used 6 mm glass beads  
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends 
Needle that will fit through the bead.        
Matching thread                                    
Pattern note – The yarn is held DOUBLE throughout.
The pattern is written using UK terminology with US translations in abbreviation list.

Finished size
The completed flowers measure: L – 8 cm (3.1 in), S – 6 cm (2.3 in) in diameter.

Tension 
It is not important to achieve any particular tension in this project. 

Let’s begin. 
With colour A held double, make a magic loop.
Round 1: ch 1, 8 dc into magic loop, ss to first dc and pull tight on the tail to close up opening.
Round 2: ch 5 (counts as 1 tr and ch-2 sp), [1 tr into next st, ch 2] 7 times, ss to 3rd of ch 5. (8 ch-2 sp)
Round 3: ch1, [5 tr into next ch-2 sp, ss to top of next tr] into every ch-2 sp, ending with ss to beginning ch 1.
Change to colour B
Round 4: working behind each petal (see tutorial below), ss into base of next 2 tr, 1 dc into base of next tr, [ch 4, 1 dc into base of tr in the centre of next petal] 7 times, ch 4, ss into first dc. (8 ch-4 sp).
Round 5: ch 1, [7 tr into next ch-4 sp, ss to top of next dc] into every ch-4 sp, ending with ss to beginning ch 1.
Fasten off.
For small flower just work rounds 1 to 3 in desired colour, holding yarn double throughout.

Leaf (make 2)
With colour C make 11 chains.
Round 1: 1 dc into second chain from hook, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 tr into next 4 ch, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 dc into next ch, ch1, working on the other side of chains, 1 dc into next ch, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 tr into next 4 ch, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 dc into next ch, ss to first dc.
Fasten off.

Making up 
Weave in ends. Attach leaves to the back of the flowers. Using needle and matching thread to yarn or one strand of yarn sew on beads to the centre of the flower.


Tutorials 
Below are the video and picture tutorials to show you how to work into back of the flower.

1: Working from the back into each petal, insert hook in between stitches under the chains that formed ch-spaces on round 2. Ss into base of first tr.

2: Ss into base of second tr. 

3: 1 dc into base of third tr.

4: Ch 4, 1 dc into base of tr in the centre of next petal.
 

5: Work as instructed, forming ch-spaces at the back of work.