I have taught a lovely class yesterday to My John Lewis customers. It was my first class over Zoom and it was a lot of fun.
I promised to post a video on how to make the snowflake as a reminder to class participants and it’s a perfect opportunity to share the snowflake with everyone.
Below you will find the written pattern and chart and the video is on my Instagram IGTV and Facebook page. I’ll post the video with subtitles onto my YouTube later on.
Any Double Knitting yarn would be great to use for this project.
3.00 or 3.50 mm crochet hook, size depends on your tension. If you are loose crocheter use the smaller one, if your crochet is tight use the bigger one.
After blocking – approximately 8 cm from point to point across.
Abbreviations – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed * – repeat instructions following the single or double asterisk as directed Ch – chain Ch-sp – chain space Dc (US sc) – double crochet (US single crochet) Htr (US hdc) – half treble (US half double crochet) Miss (US skip) – omit st(s) Rd(s) – round(S) Rep – repeat Sl st – slip stitch St(s) – stitch(es) Tr (US dc) – treble (US double crochet)
Pattern is written using UK terminology, with US conversions given in brackets in abbreviation list.
Snowflake – written pattern
Ch 5, sl st to first ch to make a ring.
Rnd 1: 4 ch (counts as 1htr and ch-2 sp), working into the centre of your ring, [1htr, ch2] 5 times, sl st to second of beginning ch2.
(6 ch-2 sp)
Rnd 2: sl st to first ch-2 sp, ch 1, [1dc, 1htr, 1tr, ch3, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc] all in the same space, * miss next st, [1dc, 1htr, 1tr, ch3, 1tr, 1htr, 1dc] all in the next space, rep from * until all spaces have been worked,
sl st to first dc.
Rnd 3: sl st in next 2 sts, so you reach next ch-3 sp, sl st in ch sp,
* ch3, sl st in same sp, ch5 sl st in same sp, ch3, sl st in same sp, ch 3, sl st in next ch-2 sp, rep from * until all spaces have been worked, sl st to first space.
Join yarn to any ch-5 sp created on last round, ch 15 and sl st to same sp.
Weave in all ends using tapestry needle.
For best finish, block your snowflake by pining it out on a towel, inserting a pin in every point and steam gently with an iron, being careful the iron does not touch the fabric.
A symbol chart is a visual representation of a crochet pattern. Each round is depicted, stitch by stitch, using symbols that represent the stitches.
Once you get familiar with the symbols that represent each stitch, it is easy to read charts. They are designed to read exactly like they look, so the fabric that you are creating in your hands will look just like the visual diagram on the page.
The important thing to know to work from a crochet symbol chart is where to put the stitches. In this chart you will work round-by-round reading images instead of in words. This chart is worked from the inside out, starting in the centre and working counterclockwise. The end of round is represented with slip stitch which is the black or pink dot.
Also, round numbers are placed at the start of round and each round is different colour so it is not confusing.
Hope you are all staying safe and taking care of yourselves and if self-isolating you have plenty to keep you entertained. It is a very frightening time but let’s remember that we are all in the same boat, and we must help, whenever we can, the less fortunate.
This shawl might be the perfect project when you are self-isolating, I’m hoping it will keep your mind off the horrible things happening. It is a deep triangular shawl worked top down in traditional granny square style. It’s a stash buster shawl which is super quick and easy make. I came up with the idea for it from simply looking at my yarn stash. All the one balls of yarn that we save here and there will be perfect to use for this shawl, I’m about to start a second version using all the oddments. All you need is enough in your oddments of one colour to complete one row. I have used DK yarns but any weight will be great, just adjust the hook size accordingly, I would go 2 sizes up from what’s recommended for your yarn.
The shawl gets its name from the lovely sparrows that were flying around when we were taking pictures of the shawl at Rye Meads in Hertfordshire.
This version is done with Drops Puna and Louisa Harding Amitola. I don’t even remember what I bought the Drops yarn for exactly, but it is the most beautiful shade of grey. The colour in Amitola is long discontinued and I remember I bought it on sale in John Lewis ages ago. I love Amitola yarns and colours, it has long lengths between colour changes which looks lovely when crochet. I only had one ball of this yarn so decided to spread it out across the shawl.
I have used exactly 5.5 balls of the Drops yarn and almost everything of Amitola, I just had a tiny bit left.
Before you get crocheting, please read these first:
• Please note that pattern is written using UK terminology with US conversion given in abbreviation list.
• Do not cut yarns after every stripe but carry it with you – see techniques at the end of pattern.
Colour A – 6 x Drops Puna sh.07 – 100% Alpaca, 110 m (120 yds) to 50 g
Colour B – 1 x Louisa Harding Amitola DK sh.103 – 80% Wool, 20 % Silk, 250 m (273 yds) to 50 g
5 mm (US 8/H) crochet hook
After gentle blocking 5 tr groups and 11 rows measured over pattern to 10 cm (4 in) using 5 mm hook.
The measurements are taken after gentle blocking – approx. 180 cm at the top edge and 88 cm deep.
 – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
*and ** – repeat instructions following the single or double asterisk as directed
Foundation row: Using colour A, work ch 1, 1 dc, [ch 3, 1 dc] 3 times into an adjustable ring, enclosing the yarn end as you work, pull tight on the yarn end to close up opening. (3 ch-3 sp)
Row 1 (RS): ch 4 (counts as 1 tr and ch-1 sp here and throughout), 3 tr in first ch-3 sp, [3 tr, ch 4, 3 tr] all in next ch-3 sp, 3 tr in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 1 tr in last st. ( 4 x tr groups)
You may wish to place a marker at the centre ch-4 sp to denote the spine of the shawl, move the marker up as you work.
Change to colour B
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1 dc in first st, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, 1 dc between next tr groups, ch 3, [1 dc, ch 4, 1 dc] in centre ch-4 sp, ch 3, 1 dc between next tr groups, ch 3, 1 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in 3rd of beg ch 4. (7 ch-sp)
Row 3: ch 4, 3 tr in every ch-3 sp to centre ch-4 sp, [3 tr, ch 4, 3 tr] all in centre ch-4 sp, 3 tr in every ch-3 sp to last st, ch 1, 1 tr in last st. ( 8 x tr groups)
Change to colour A
Row 4: ch 1, 1 dc in first st, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, *1 dc between next tr groups, ch 3* rep from * to * to centre ch-4 sp, [1 dc, ch 4, 1 dc] in centre ch-4 sp, ch 3, rep from * to * to last ch-1 sp, 1 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 3, 1 dc in 3rd of beg ch 4. (11 ch-sp)
Rows 3 and 4 form the pattern.
Keep repeating the pattern working in colour sequence as set below.
Do not cut yarns after every colour change but carry it with you neatly up the side of work catching it in stitches (see instructions below).
Row 5 – A
Rows 6 and 7 – B
Rows 8 and 9 – A
Rows 10 and 11 – B
Rows 12 and 13 – A
Rows 14 and 15 – B
Rows 16 and 17 – A
Rows 18 and 19 – B
Rows 20 and 21 – A
Rows 22 and 23 – B
Rows 24 and 25 – A
Rows 26 and 27 – B
Rows 28 to 31 – A
Rows 32 to 33 – B
Rows 34 to 39 – A
Rows 40 and 41 – B
Rows 42 to 49 – A
Rows 50 and 51 – B
Rows 52 to 61 – A
Row 62 – B
Row 63 – A
Row 64 – B
Continue in colour B
Row 65 (RS): ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch-3 sp), *1 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3*, rep from * to * to centre ch-4 sp, [1 dc, ch 4, 1 dc] in centre ch-4 sp, ch 3, rep from * to * to last st, 1 dc in last st. (133 ch-sp)
To avoid frustrations and huge amount of ends to weave in carry the yarn with you up the side of the shawl and do not cut it at every colour change.
For the neatest finish, change on the last stitch of treble row.
1: Stop on the last stage before treble is completed, when you have two loops on hook.
2: Drop the working yarn to the back of work and pick up new colour from the front of work.
3: Finish off the stitch with new colour.
Continue this way when you have two rows between colour changes.
When you need to carry yarn over few rows, catch it twice at the beginning and end of tr: yrh, insert hook in next st, place the yarn you need to carry on the hook, yrh, pull up a loop, making sure that the additional yarn doesn’t come through the stitch but is stays neatly on top of the working yarn, yrh pull through two loops on hook, place the yarn you are carrying on the hook again, yrh, pull though two loops on hook, the additional yarn stays on top of working yarn neatly moving up the sides.
Stop carrying yarns after row 41, the changes between colours just get too wide.
Since I posted a picture of the flowers I crocheted for the beautiful and courageous Jenny. I have had quite a lot of inquiries for the pattern, it was a flower that I made up, but you have encouraged me to put the pattern on paper.
I would like to share the flower with you in memory of the amazing Jenny and encourage you to make and share the flowers with anyone who needs cheering up. Spread a little love around, the world really needs it right now.
Magic loop – for tutorial on how to work this technique, please click here
Tr (US dc) – treble crochet (US -double crochet)
Ss – slip stitch
You will need small amounts of
Rowan Kidsilk Haze in 3 colours A, B and C
3.5 mm (US E/4) crochet hook
Approx. 11 x beads – I have used 6 mm glass beads Tapestry needle for weaving in ends Needle that will fit through the bead. Matching thread
Pattern note – The yarn is held DOUBLE throughout.
The pattern is written using UK terminology with US translations in abbreviation list.
Finished size The completed flowers measure: L – 8 cm (3.1 in), S – 6 cm (2.3 in) in diameter.
Tension It is not important to achieve any particular tension in this project.
With colour A held double, make a magic loop.
Round 1: ch 1, 8 dc into magic loop, ss to first dc and pull tight on the tail to close up opening.
Round 2: ch 5 (counts as 1 tr and ch-2 sp), [1 tr into next st, ch 2] 7 times, ss to 3rd of ch 5. (8 ch-2 sp)
Round 3: ch1, [5 tr into next ch-2 sp, ss to top of next tr] into every ch-2 sp, ending with ss to beginning ch 1.
Change to colour B
Round 4: working behind each petal (see tutorial below), ss into base of next 2 tr, 1 dc into base of next tr, [ch 4, 1 dc into base of tr in the centre of next petal] 7 times, ch 4, ss into first dc. (8 ch-4 sp).
Round 5: ch 1, [7 tr into next ch-4 sp, ss to top of next dc] into every ch-4 sp, ending with ss to beginning ch 1.
For small flower just work rounds 1 to 3 in desired colour, holding yarn double throughout.
Leaf (make 2)
With colour C make 11 chains.
Round 1: 1 dc into second chain from hook, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 tr into next 4 ch, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 dc into next ch, ch1, working on the other side of chains, 1 dc into next ch, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 tr into next 4 ch, 1 htr into next 2 ch, 1 dc into next ch, ss to first dc.
Weave in ends. Attach leaves to the back of the flowers. Using needle and matching thread to yarn or one strand of yarn sew on beads to the centre of the flower.
Below are the video and picture tutorials to show you how to work into back of the flower.
1: Working from the back into each petal, insert hook in between stitches under the chains that formed ch-spaces on round 2.Ss into base of first tr.
2: Ss into base of second tr.
3: 1 dc into base of third tr.
4:Ch 4, 1 dc into base of tr in the centre of next petal.
5: Work as instructed, forming ch-spaces at the back of work.